Brightly combining fresh mirabelle and lemon with a hint of herbal pungency on the nose as well as on a silken-textured palate, the Heymann-Lowenstein 2009 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Laubach displays just a faint hint of sweetness that serves to accentuated its plummy fruit and help ward off any tendency toward austerity in its strikingly persistent finish dominated by lemon, licorice, peach kernel, and wet stone. Here is another instance in this collection of relative restraint; but the long if slightly lean line here - augmented by considerable complexity and textural allure - promise a wine well worth following for at least the better part of the coming decade.

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