[yoyo348]

http://www.skyalbum.com.hk/yoyo348/8f40715184059a9258edb1aa8a49dcf0/

有用腳"假",

如果人物唔係正中, 可以點對焦?

[yoyo348]

我係用D50, 28-80mm 3.5-4.6

[light741]

可能快門開得太長

[dannyskf3]

似對錯焦多啲!

[dannyskf3]

可試下手動對焦

[mimglam]

因為主體(你的post)太黑太遠, 自動對焦用的紅燈照射不到, 所以相機的多點智能對焦糸統誤以為背後的亮麗燈飾才是你的主體.
雖然我不是nikon用家, 不太清楚D50的運作, 照估計應該可以以手動形式把自動對焦點鎖定在中心位置, 強迫相機只對中心的主體對焦. 即使對焦時間會很長(可能是4-5秒), 但總好過失焦.
如果仍是太黑對焦不了, 只好把主體移近, 或是用手動對焦:
- 把光圈調到最小, 例如f22
- 估計主體的距離, 例如5米
- 根據鏡頭面上的焦距刻度作出調教.

[yoyo348]

多謝哂各位,

但如果我要對焦既人物唔係正中, 咁應該點Set?

D50 可擇

1.單區域

2. 動態區域

3. 最近被攝物

[靚蝦后]

人物唔係正中

******************

先對好焦，再 lock focus, 先至構圖

[teddykwan]

1.單區域

2. 動態區域

3. 最近被攝物

選擇<1>
對焦點(五點其中一點)一定要對住想主體.

[pongyee]

最錯係中左毒。

[myrran]

I think I know what the problem is, as I have similar problem using my D50

I bet you were using a tripod and set a 10 sec timer, push the shutter release button then run to the spot you set to go, right?

If this is the case, then you have the same problem as mine. The photos are out of focus (i.e. focus is at background). When you pressed the shutter release button, the camera already select the focus which is the background, so even after you move to the spot, the focus is still on the background.

The solution to this is to buy a remote control to the camera (around HK$50). At first, you move to the spot and set the focus point to your spot. Then press the remote and take the photo. You may still wish to set a delay of say 2 sec to allow yourself prepared after pushing the remote.

I hope the above help and works.

[和平使者]

睇過你的相，好有可能係閃灯閃完而快門後簾幕未關時，主體以為已經影完

而郁動所產生的鬆矇現象；將相機和外閃調較至後簾快門，同時叫个主體在

兩次閃灯〈而家嘅閃灯有預閃〉或閃灯過後忍耐兩秒才郁動，相信情況必有

改善！另外盡量使用手動對焦，還有要帶備小電筒，用作對焦時射向主體，

一定對到焦，記得按下快門前關電筒呀！

[呀超]

有幾張絕對唔可能相機對錯焦！人物又正中又夠大，好可能相機較o左手動對焦，而對焦點又轉在無限遠，而又以為係自動對焦？

對對糊、好難估！哈哈哈！

[isroy]

agree with ngminglam,
吾關快門簾幕既事
似係對左焦, set 死個central focus
manual focus 就攪掂晒

[pkpartner]

用28mm "對"埋D部機 對蕉個人等境深大D 後面清D 收細光圈去F5.6~8 手動暴光兩秒 叫Model唔好郁 效果會好D 如果境黑就升iso 人太光 就減弱支燈