[gacktchow]

手機型號:G9
我想問下我影相時爆曬光(因為較慢快門or較大光圈)
那我是否應該相應地較細光圈or 較快快門，或者加ND(相機內置左,唔知夠唔夠)，iso，曝光補償....直到搵到一個岩幅相既光度？

反之，拍出黎是黑色一片就相反操作？

另外，如果我影出黎既相幪查查(因為較慢快門or sth else...)，咁我應該點做？如果腳架在當時不適用？

還有...如果我普通影張相，應該注意d咩呢，如果無話有d 咩 effect,是不是就auto算了

唔知各位師兄，影相一羅部機出黎會點做，AV? TV? White Balance? or 無乜野就Auto算了?

[bonnieho2007]

你好啊~我都係啱買左部g9學緊。~~
大家齊齊加油學習啦:)

[arafeva]

just went with a friend to purchase his new G9, had a little play with it earlier...

for general use:
if you are shooting outdoor, things look better when they are under good light, ie a sunny day.

during day time, unless you are after some special effects, for normal shooting, you want to use a faster shutter to avoid the blur.

that's why you need a bigger aperture (nobody shoots wide open/max aperture in good daylight unless they need to) for a fast shutter speed.

爆曬光 can sometime be corrected by using the correct WB.
Most of the time is due to the incorrect exposure.
your light metering mode is important, try matrix to start with

影出黎既相幪查查, check if you can do sth about the lighting first, if not, your focusing.
if you are using a slow shutter speed, turn you IS on.
IS cant help too much if you are using a really slow shutter speed, sth like slower than 1/10 of a second? turn your aperture and/or ISO up a stop (like from F5.6 to F4; ISO200 to 400)

if you are snapping, you dun wanna miss out on those special moments and shooting on the wide ends (if your range is 28-125mm, 28mm is the wide end) with auto settings is a useful choice.

影相一羅部機出黎會點做?
if you have time, check the WB

[gacktchow]

nobody shoots wide open/max aperture in good daylight unless they need to
但有時如果要做景深，是不是在太陽底下都要set f2

your light metering mode is important, try matrix to start with
這個唔係太明，我應該點樣try matrix

[feet]

爆光係閃(機)同主體太近，又大光圈，不過機仔唔用大仲有咩用。

可以試下增加距離。zoom少少，光圈已經自己變少。
想背景光d就要睇背景本身有幾光，如果同主體差好多或者背景距離好遠，可能要曝耐d，自己試下就可以掌握。測光用權衡(matrix)要睇主體有幾大。一樣我都唔會用。用點測，再測測背景。DC有得睇番再影多幾張。

[arafeva]

景深
a larger aperture gives a swallower 景深 and
a smaller aperture givers a deeper 景深

if your range of the lens and aperture stay the same,
the closer you get towards your subject with your camera, you get a swallower 景深 and
the further away you get from your subject, you get a deeper 景深.

keeping the same distance away from your subject with the same aperture,
a telephoto lens gives the thinest (swallow) 景深, thiner than the mid-range and standard lens, while the wide ones give the deepest 景深 (that's why you tend to get most of the things focused when shooting with a wide)

但有時如果要做景深，是不是在太陽底下都要set f2 <---you make the choice lah

use matrix for metering saves you time and you are better off with it when you are snapping.

what feet ching mentioned: '用點測，再測測背景' is absolutely right when you are shooting portraits

[Laza]

>>我想問下我影相時爆曬光(因為較慢快門or較大光圈)
那我是否應該相應地較細光圈or 較快快門，或者加ND(相機內置左,唔知夠唔夠)，iso，曝光補償....直到搵到一個岩幅相既光度？

If the pix is overexposed because of long exposure (slow shutter speed) or large aperture, there are 4 things you can do:
- Lower the ISO (Applicable in Auto, P, Tv, Av, M)
- Faster shutter time (Applicable in Tv, M)
- Smaller aperture, i.e. higher "F" number (Applicable in Av, M)
- Turn on the built-in ND filter, but as it cuts the exposure by 8 times, you may have to adjust other parameters to correct the exposure.
- Turn the exposure compensation (曝光補償) (EV+-) to the negative side, a faster shutter time and/or smaller aperture will be determined by the processor (Applicable in P, Tv, Av)
Either one, or a combination of them.

>>另外，如果我影出黎既相幪查查(因為較慢快門or sth else...)，咁我應該點做？如果腳架在當時不適用？

First of all, nothing can help you to get a sharp blur-free pix of slow shutter, except a tripod (even a mini one helps) or something to steady the camera.

But still, you can try to have a very steady and stable stance. You then can try to make use of what's in the surrounding to rest the camera on, like railing, post box, lamp post, etc. Another little trick is use a little handkerchief, have it properly folded and placed on some railing or steady surface, then use the 2s or 10s self timer. I always use this to take long exposure shots.

>>還有...如果我普通影張相，應該注意d咩呢，如果無話有d 咩 effect,是不是就auto算了

Even an ordinary snapshot, at least you should try to get the following right,

1. White Balance
2. Sharp, no blurry. Even at the expense of high ISO
3. Use flash only when neccessary, like backlight.
4. Make use of the gridlines, esp. for landscape shots, to ensure the sea level is flat, the buildings (in the middle, at least) is straight, etc.

>>唔知各位師兄，影相一羅部機出黎會點做，AV? TV? White Balance? or 無乜野就Auto算了?

Mostly, I use "P", but never "Auto". "P" mode allows you to set WB, ISO, exposure compensation. "Auto" does not.

[Laza]

>>for general use:
if you are shooting outdoor, things look better when they are under good light, ie a sunny day.

Correct. On sunny day you get the most vibrant color. But On a cloudy day you can still get good picutre, esp. if you want moody one. Also, bright sunny day, if at backlight, the shadow can be too strong, on the other hand, a cloudy day is like softened lighting with a bouncer, and there is no strong shadow.

>>during day time, unless you are after some special effects, for normal shooting, you want to use a faster shutter to avoid the blur.

Correct.

>>that's why you need a bigger aperture (nobody shoots wide open/max aperture in good daylight unless they need to) for a fast shutter speed.

You mean bigger aperture value (i.e. small aperture)??
F2.8 is the bigger aperture than F8.0.

>>爆曬光 can sometime be corrected by using the correct WB.

Wrong. Overexposed has nothing to do with WB. Exposure value is a combination of shutter speed, aperture value, and ISO value.

>>Most of the time is due to the incorrect exposure.
your light metering mode is important, try matrix to start with

Correct. Metering mode (測光模式) can seriously affect your exposure. Matrix metering means the brightness level of the entire composition area is broken down into small segments, and the level of each individual grid is calculated, and summed up to return a composite value. Canon call it "Evaluative metering".

There are also "Centre weighed metering", which takes higher weighing of the centre area; and also "Spot metering", which takes a even smaller area, either the focus area, or the centre area.

>>影相一羅部機出黎會點做?
if you have time, check the WB

Correct, esp. if you have the habit of changing it a lot, For example, if you go from "Sunny" outdoors to "Tungsten" indoors to "Florescent Lamp", you could easily forget the setting. I usually set it to AWB, and the camera takes about 2 sec to set the WB usually, and Canon (at least G7/G9) has very accurate AWB.

[arafeva]

thank you for correcting ching =0)

>>that's why you need a bigger aperture (nobody shoots wide open/max aperture in good daylight unless they need to) for a fast shutter speed.

I think this was abit misleading...

when I mentioned bigger aperture,
I meant (f2.8 > 5.6 > 8 and so on)

when I said 'wide open'
if it's the 50mm f1.4, wide open is shooting at f1.4

when I talked about max. aperture,
I was actually referring to the size rather than the numerical indicative value, for instance max aperture on the 50mm f1.4 is f1.4 and the maz aperture VALUE (on mine 50/1.4 non ai) is f22