Previously known as Reserve du Fils because it takes five years of evidence of wine quality before the VDP will classify a vineyard as Grosses Gewachs for a different variety (it was already classified for Riesling), and this is the Keller's fifth vintage. The vineyard has a long tradition of Sp酹burgunder but no VDP producer was making a Spatburgunder from it. Twenty-five-year old vines (not the high-density parcel they have planted). Cooler than Morstein. Limestone over blue clay, with seams of iron. Ripens two weeks later than Frauenberg. 100% stems in this vintage. Basket pressed and aged in older French oak. Recently bottled and therefore a bit closed. Mid crimson. Real intensity here but ethereal rather than concentrated in aroma. Just the merest hint of smoky reduction as it opens, adding a peppery spice to the dark-red fruit. As it opens further in the glass, sweeter red fruit of wild strawberries emerges, and a suggestion of stems but I would never have thought this had 100% stems. Tannins are chalky fine but with a little more resistance and chew than in the Frauenberg yet still extremely refined. They give structure even if that structure seems hidden. Energetic peppery finish, perhaps slightly leaner tha the other Spburgunders at the very end. A beauty in the making but a little less at ease with itself than the other reds right now.