Keller’s 2007 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs smells flinty, pungent, and smoky – in short (and among other things) slightly reductive – and needs time in the air to open up. Zesty grapefruit and juicy lime and peach mingle with alkaline, chalky, and smoky mineral elements on a dynamic palate which however lacks the singular combination of creaminess and energy exhibited by the Kirchspiel. The striking thing about this Hubacker is its sheer grip, not so much a savory as rather a sheer tactile intensity of finish which, however, never crosses to the unpleasant side of bitterness. Anticipate more than a dozen years of fascination, and make no assumptions as to whether this or the Kirchspiel will ultimately prove more complex or satisfying as that will in any event depend on the occasion and one’s predilections, not to mention their as yet inscrutable stages of evolution.