Keller’s 2009 Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Grosses Gewachs offers a somehow cooler but no less complex or mysterious floral bouquet – here suggestive of gentian and iris – than did its counterpart from 2008. Scents and saliva-inducing impingement of apple, fresh lime, chalk, and salt ignites an invigorating, almost levitating finishing interchange of fresh and distilled fruit, floral, fruit pit, and mineral elements. Dynamically bright yet coolly refreshing and with a striking, shimmering sense of clarity (but by no means cool in the stand-offish manner of the corresponding Kirchspiel), this beauty should be fascinating to follow over the next dozen or more years. No doubt Keller is correct – these are, after all, among his own precious children – in judging this Hubacker to be at a more expressive stage than the corresponding (in his words “ shier, more restrained”) Kirchspiel, but I perceive the expression of brightness and minerality of Hubacker as inherently more engaging.