The Keller 2007 Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewachs combines a cool restraint of melon-like fruit and overtly chalky, saline, savory mineral tones with an only nominally contradictory conjunction of creaminess and tactile impingement of tart berry skin and herbal pungency. The nose on its own is Burgundian in its aura of crushed stone, toasted hazelnuts, citrus oil, and milled grain, but the echoes of these elements on the palate are accompanied by a lusciousness of fruit and almost subliminal sense of electric charge that definitely spell “Riesling.” This may not be more fun to drink right now than the “von der Fels” bottling – which is as Keller intended – but what a length there is here! Plan to follow this beauty for at least the next 12-15 years.
DRINK DATE
2009 - 2020
Incredible combination of herbs and spices on the nose represents a pure reflection of the Kirchspiel terroir. I’m very much reminded of Gewürztraminer. On the palate much more Riesling with the required acidity credentials and a pronounced minerality expressed by wet-stone aromas. A very creamy and rich texture is complemented by great extract and the never-ending finish we have come to expect from Keller wines. If dry Riesling can be decadent, this is it!